They Fit!
December 26th, 2010
I finished setting the grommets in my stays yesterday afternoon (do you know a better way to spend Christmas?). And I am delighted to report that THEY FIT! Take no notice of the wrinkling — aside from the zip ties surrounding the lacing holes, the stays are still completely un-boned.
Here you can see the spiral lacing up the back, with just the right amount of spring. Since the front was only pinned together, I didn’t even try to tighten them. I may change one or two things on the final pattern — the front stomach gussets are a little wider than strictly necessary (and kick out just a bit, though most of it is filled in by the skirt of my chemise), and I don’t think the bottom shape in the front is very graceful. You can’t see it in this picture, but it just cuts straight across, rather than sloping to a point in the middle as the back does.
Neither is worth changing on this particular pair of stays however, as they won’t affect the fit, which is what I am trying to determine. I shall simply note the changes for the next go round.
Since it is unlikely that I will be able to shop for a metal busk or twill tape (for bone channels) anytime in the next few days, I must reluctantly postpone any further work on my stays. Back to my embroidered petticoat frill I guess. Or maybe I will cut out some new — and greatly needed — drawers.
Spiraling
December 22nd, 2010
Tonight I set the grommets* on the left half of my new stays. I would have done both halves, but somehow I feel funny about pounding grommets with a hammer on my apartment floor after 10 pm. My neighbors feel funny about it too.
I suppose I could have quietly worked the holes round in buttonhole stitch, an option suggested in the Workwoman’s Guide, published in 1838. But the Workwoman’s Guide also mentions “patent lace-holes,” noting that some people prefer them despite how hard they are on your laces. By 1857, Godey’s doesn’t even mention working the holes, but presumes you are going to use “a box of French holes; and a punch for putting them in.”
I made another exciting discovery about the stay pattern though. Read on…
Who Will Lace My Corset?
December 20th, 2010
As I continue to work on my new stays (which will be without benefit of front opening busk), the question of how I will lace myself into them continues to arise. I’m an old hand at tightening my own corsets, but I’ve never slid into one already laced closed before.
I decided to do a little research on Google books, and while I have yet to come up with 1850s directions for lacing one’s own stays, I did find a very humorous account in The commissioner: or, De lunatico inquirendo, published in Dublin, 1843, that is somewhat related. It concerns a young criminal named Joey who hides himself under the nose of the law by dressing up as a French mademoiselle. Read on…
Nearly Halfway
December 18th, 2010
Last March I began a truly monumental project: to whit, a hand-sewn, tucked, embroidered petticoat based on an 1854 Practical Dress Instructor pattern from Godey’s Lady’s Book. The skirt, comprising 3 panels of 45 inch “calico” (modern cotton muslin) was finished in relatively short order, including 6 hand-sewn tucks and a 2 inch wide insertion of white-on-white embroidered morning glories going all the way around the bottom. I’ll post pictures once I dig it out of my sewing closet, where it has been peacefully reposing for some time now.
Then it was on to the frill in Broderie Anglaise. And that’s where I’ve been stuck for the past 6 months. Cutting and stitching, cutting and stitching, all with a single thread of embroidery floss. I’m finally nearing the halfway point on the cut-work. When all 135 inches are finally complete, I’ll go back over it again to buttonhole the scalloped edge.
Gores & Seams
December 16th, 2010
I’ve been making progress on my new stays. I’m proud to report that the bosom, hip, and stomach-gores are all neatly hand-sewn and felled in place. I particularly like the way the directions include steps for fitting each gore as they are first basted in, then adjusted, and finally sewn in place.
I must admit I did most of my fitting with a machine-sewn mock-up, so I didn’t bother basting the bosom gores or stomach gores at all. But when I discovered how poorly the hip (back) gores that I’d cut out fitted into the slashes they were meant to fill, I decided to fit them on my body again. Good thing too, as I ended up taking out nearly an inch of fabric!
